Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles
25 km, more than 1,200 m of ascent and the most spectacular start to the Camino Francés. Here's how to tackle it.
It is one of the most famous stages on any of the Ways of St James, and probably the most dreaded. Crossing the Pyrenees on your first day, with a pack on your back and legs not yet broken in, is not something to improvise.
The stage in figures
| Criterion | Napoleon Route | Valcarlos route |
|---|---|---|
| Distance | about 25 km | about 24 km |
| Ascent | about 1,200 to 1,400 m | about 1,100 m |
| Highest point | Col de Lepoeder, about 1,430 m | Col d'Ibañeta, about 1,060 m |
| Duration | 7 to 9 hrs | 6 to 8 hrs |
| Open | 1 April to 31 October | all year round |
Figures are approximate and vary between tracks and sources. Always check the day's conditions with the pilgrims' office before setting off.
Napoleon Route or Valcarlos route?
The Napoleon Route
This is the historic route and the most popular. It climbs steeply straight out of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, follows pastoral ridges where sheep and pottoks graze, then drops into Spain over the Col de Lepoeder. On a clear day, the view stretches far across the Pyrenees and Navarre.
The downside: exposure. Shelter is very scarce on the ridges (there is an emergency refuge at Izandorre, on the Spanish side). In fog, strong wind or a storm, conditions deteriorate quickly.
The Valcarlos route
It follows the valley floor alongside the road (D933 then N-135), passing through the village of Valcarlos, then climbs to the Col d'Ibañeta before dropping down to Roncesvalles. Less photogenic, but safer: you can find shelter and services, and the altitude stays moderate.
It is no second-best option: it is the recommended variant as soon as the weather turns, and the only one permitted in winter.
The Napoleon Route step by step
- Leaving Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. You leave town through the Porte d'Espagne (Spanish Gate) and the climb begins immediately. No warm-up, no gentle slope: the gradient is there from the very first few hundred metres.
- Hunto, then Orisson. After about 8 km, the Orisson refuge lets you split the stage. Many walkers sleep there to turn one very hard day into two reasonable ones.
- The ridges. The long pastoral crossing, with the Virgin of Biakorri on your left and flocks everywhere. It is one of the most photographed sections.
- The Col de Bentarte and Roland's Fountain. You cross the border almost without noticing, at around 1,300 m. It is one of the few water points on the route.
- The Col de Lepoeder. The highest point of the stage. From here, there are two possible descents to Roncesvalles, one of them very steep through the forest.
- Roncesvalles. The collegiate church, the hostel and, for many, the feeling of having crossed much more than a mountain.
The winter closure: take it seriously
From 1 November to 31 March
The Napoleon Route is closed by the Government of Navarre on its Spanish section during this period, from the border reached at the pass and at the Bentarte fountain. Snow and fog regularly cause walkers to get lost and have accidents there. The route via Valcarlos is then the only one permitted. From 1 April to 31 October, the high route is open, except for occasional closures in bad weather.
Our advice before you set off
- Set off early. Reaching Roncesvalles at nightfall leaves little margin if something goes wrong.
- Check the forecast the evening before. In the Basque mountains, the weather changes fast and the wind can be fierce on the ridges.
- Take water and food. Services are scarce between Orisson and Roncesvalles.
- Pack a windproof layer. Even in summer, it is chilly at 1,400 m in the wind.
- Get a good night's sleep beforehand. A restful night before this stage is worth more than any piece of kit.
Maison Iturria and the Camino de Santiago
Frequently asked questions
How many kilometres from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles?
About 25 km via the Napoleon Route, with roughly 1,200 to 1,400 metres of ascent. Allow 7 to 9 hours of walking depending on your pace and the weather.
What is the difference between the Napoleon Route and the Valcarlos route?
The Napoleon Route goes through high mountains and over the Col de Lepoeder, with outstanding views but a lot of climbing and exposure to wind and fog. The Valcarlos route follows the valley floor, alongside the road (D933 then N-135): less spectacular, lower, and passable all year round.
Is the Napoleon Route open all year?
No. From 1 November to 31 March, it is closed on its Spanish section by decision of the Government of Navarre, because of the risk of snow and fog. From 1 April to 31 October, it is open, except for occasional closures in bad weather.
Can the stage be split in two?
Yes, and many people are advised to. The Orisson refuge, about 8 km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, lets you break up the climb. Places there are limited and must be booked well in advance.
Is there water along the way?
Water points are few and far between. Roland's Fountain, near the Col de Bentarte on the border, is one of the rare landmarks. Set off with at least two litres per person in summer.
Where to stay in the area?
Maison Iturria is in Gamarthe, 10 km from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, on the Camino de Santiago (GR65). Two unusual places to stay, a tipi tent for 5 and a cabin for 3, with breakfast included from €90 per night, and a table d'hôtes (home-cooked dinner) in the evening.
Fancy a stay at Iturria?
We prefer to receive booking requests by email. If needed, you can also reach us by phone between 10 am and 8 pm.